{"id":2573,"date":"2020-01-31T09:52:00","date_gmt":"2020-01-31T07:52:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ummforat.com\/?p=2573"},"modified":"2024-10-21T08:45:21","modified_gmt":"2024-10-21T08:45:21","slug":"i-went-for-a-run-and-saw-settlers-took-over-a-spring-near-a-palestinian-village","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ummforat.com\/en\/i-went-for-a-run-and-saw-settlers-took-over-a-spring-near-a-palestinian-village\/","title":{"rendered":"I Went for a Run and Saw Settlers Took Over a Spring Near a Palestinian Village"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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On a morning run, I discovered that settlers took over a spring that Ein Qinya is known for, on lands belonging to a Palestinian family<\/p>\n\n

Every time I return from time abroad, I notice the changing scenery in and around Ramallah. Some of the changes are natural: an apartment block at the edge of the street where a thicket of trees used to be. A new trendy coffee shop that replaced a different trendy coffee shop. The first falafel stand opening in a small village. But in the West Bank, changes in the scenery are also the result of a struggle between Israeli settlers and residents of Palestinian villages. The settlers try to take for themselves another bit of scenery<\/a>, and the Palestinians try to fend them off. My love for long runs exposes me to these areas of transformation, where Palestinians perceive Israelis as a threat. In other words, they perceive me as a threat.<\/p>\n\n

Inside Ramallah my situation is not that bad, because during the day one doesn\u2019t expect to see Israelis. The army prefers to make arrests there at night. Villagers, on the other hand, feel the Israeli presence strongly: army patrols, flash checkpoints, harassment and attacks by settlers and in some places also commerce with settlers.<\/p>\n\n

But in the villages I can run without getting run over by a car or choking from exhaust fumes, and so it\u2019s hard to give up on trail running there. It\u2019s rare to see a woman running. I wear loose-fitting pants and shower passers-by with smiles and greetings of \u201cgood morning\u201d in Arabic, in the hope they won\u2019t think I\u2019m a settler. Their fears are a threat to me.<\/p>\n\n

Two weeks after we returned from the United States, I set out for an early Friday morning run to Ein Qinya, a small, beautiful village, home to 750 residents, bordering Ramallah and hemmed in by the Israeli settlement of Dolev. I ran from the bourgeois neighborhood of Tireh down the road that leads to the wadi. On my left was a pretty stream in which mostly sewage flowed. On my right, olive trees dotted the slope of the hill, together with fig trees heavy with ripe fruit. Birds flitted between the trees, and a fox crossed the road. When I reached the village, a young man walked past me.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cSbah el-khair,\u201d I greeted him with a smiling good morning.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cSbah el-nour,\u201d he answered, with a closed face.<\/p>\n\n

I passed the pink-walled elementary school, with the red flags of the Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine draping its courtyard wall. At the mosque I turned left, toward the path that leads out of the village. Quiet. A cluster of clouds above portended the approaching autumn. Osama and I liked to walk there in the winter, to pick the mallow that grew wild in the fields and to show Forat the donkey and chickens.<\/p>\n\n

I dispatched another \u201cgood morning\u201d to a ten-year old boy riding his bike. He accelerated, passed me with breakneck speed, trying to impress me or maybe \u2013 to alert his parents? I didn\u2019t see anyone else outside.<\/p>\n\n

I ran on a path that went down to the farmland, toward Wadi al-Major. Osama and I once met a young man there who complained that settlers from Dolev were trying to take one of the springs that Ein Qinya is known for, which, he said, was located on lands belonging to his family. I remembered from previous runs that the path ended well before the spring, disappearing into thorny bushes that in winter were dotted with wildflowers.<\/p>\n\n

\"\"\n
Setters marked a path to the spring. Credit: Umm Forat<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n

But the path appeared to continue and even widen alongside the wadi, as if it had been cleared. Suddenly I saw trail markings in the style of the Israeli Society for the Preservation of Nature \u2013 a green line painted on the rock, highlighted by two painted white lines. I ran another few dozen meters and reached a site containing a gazebo-like thatched roof, benches and a big sign that read, in Hebrew, \u201cEin Mazor\u201d, a Hebraization of the original name, Ein al-Major.<\/p>\n\n

The settlers from Dolev had taken over the spring. And for reasons I did not understand, they had also cleared and marked a trail from the spring to the village of Ein Qinya.<\/p>\n\n

\"\"\n
The spring was on the edge of the village, near the settlement of Dolev. Credit: Umm Forat<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n

The sun climbed in the sky. Before me was the path that would lead to the settlement. Behind me was the path from which I came which, thanks to the clearing \u2013 now led from the settlement to the village. Maybe settlers would come now? I had seen them once on a Friday, on the road above. Families going on a hike had entered Ein Qinya, and the men carried guns.<\/p>\n\n

I sprinted back the way I had come. I practiced the sentences I would need to say in Arabic. I also practiced the smile and the ease I would exude. I passed a donkey tied to the first house of the village. The boy on the bike made a ring around me.<\/p>\n\n

\"\"\n
“In memory of our friend”. Credit: Umm Forat<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n

\u201cWhere is your mother or father?\u201d I asked him.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cAt home.\u201d He pointed to a two-story house at the edge of the village.<\/p>\n\n

I knocked on the door of the apartment on the first floor.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cWho\u2019s there?\u201d A female voice.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cMy name is Umm Forat,\u201d I answered. If she would hear that I\u2019m a woman, she wouldn\u2019t need to put on her hijab.<\/p>\n\n

A girl of about sixteen, hair uncovered, opened the door. She wiped her hands on a dish towel. \u201cYes?\u201d<\/p>\n\n

\u201cWhere is your mother or father?\u201d I asked.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cMy mother is sleeping, and my father took the goats out,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cOK, um, maybe you can tell them something for me?\u201d My stutter was awful. \u201cI live in Ramallah with my husband and children. I like running here. We were in the United States for a year. We came back now, and I saw what the settlers did, that they took the spring.\u201d I gestured in the direction of the path. She nodded. \u201cI want to tell you that if you see me here in the village, don\u2019t be afraid. I live in Ramallah, I run here and then run home, nothing more \u2026\u201d<\/p>\n\n

My nervousness and embarrassment turned the frozen smile I had plastered on my face to a real one. The girl\u2019s smile was real, too. \u201cOK,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n\n

\"\"\n
Settlers set up a benches and shade. Credit: Umm Forat<\/figcaption>\n<\/figure>\n\n

I continued running toward the exit from the village. I didn\u2019t see anyone else outside until I reached the end. Under a tree, next to the school, stood two young men. I approached them.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cGood morning,\u201d I said, a huge smile on my face.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cGood morning,\u201d one of them answered. He was about twenty years old.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cI want to tell you something,\u201d I said. \u201cI live in Ramallah and like running here. Um, I saw what the settlers did \u2026\u201d I pointed in the general direction of the spring. \u201cIf you see me here in the village, don\u2019t be afraid, OK?\u201d<\/p>\n\n

One of the young men stared at me. The other said, \u201cOK.\u201d<\/p>\n\n

\u201cOK, bye,\u201d I said and ran toward the road leading out of the village.<\/p>\n\n

When I got home, the sun was high in the sky. My running watch recorded twenty kilometers. I sat next to the door of the apartment and took off my shoes. Adam and Forat jumped on top of me.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cIma, Baba let me eat Irshalla!\u201d Forat said, referring to the local biscuit that she had missed during our year in Philadelphia.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cThat\u2019s great,\u201d I said. Adam pulled at my shirt, asking to nurse. I told Osama what had happened.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cWhy do you need to run there?\u201d he asked.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cBecause it\u2019s beautiful, quiet, and safe there,\u201d I said. He raised an eyebrow at the word \u201csafe\u201d. I corrected myself: \u201cI mean, there aren\u2019t a lot of cars there.\u201d I felt his disapproval, his criticism of me that I\u2019m not cautious enough. But how exactly does he expect me to be cautious under our circumstances?<\/p>\n\n

\u201cWhat happened, Ima?\u201d Forat asked, noticing the tension between us and maybe also my residual anxiety. How to explain to her what I was afraid of?<\/p>\n\n

\u201cIn Ein Qinya, sweetheart, people took a spring. And I was afraid that the people in the village would think that I had taken it, and would be angry at me.\u201d<\/p>\n\n

\u201cBut did you take it?\u201d<\/p>\n\n

\u201cNo, sweetheart. People close to me took it.\u201d<\/p>\n\n

\u201cSo every time you run there, you\u2019ll introduce yourself to everyone you meet?\u201d Osama asked.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cNo,\u201d I said, and I smiled a smile intended to dissipate the tension between us and also to calm myself down. \u201cI\u2019ll stop introducing myself on the day when someone answers, \u2018Oh, yes, I heard about you.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n\n

This post was also published at haaretz.com on January 31, 2020:<\/em><\/p>\n\n

https:\/\/www.haaretz.com\/israel-news\/i-went-for-a-run-and-saw-settlers-took-over-a-spring-near-a-palestinian-village-1.8473980<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

On a morning run, I discovered that settlers took over a spring that Ein Qinya is known for, on lands belonging to a Palestinian family Every time I return from time abroad, I notice the changing scenery in and around Ramallah. Some of the changes are natural: an apartment block at the edge of the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2576,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_crdt_document":"","jnews-multi-image_gallery":[],"jnews_single_post":[],"jnews_primary_category":[],"jnews_override_bookmark_settings":[],"jnews_override_counter":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[38,52,75],"class_list":["post-2573","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-military-force","tag-israel-palestine","tag-occupation","tag-west-bank"],"yoast_head":"\nI Went for a Run and Saw Settlers Took Over a Spring Near a Palestinian Village - Sari Bashi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ummforat.com\/en\/i-went-for-a-run-and-saw-settlers-took-over-a-spring-near-a-palestinian-village\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"I Went for a Run and Saw Settlers Took Over a Spring Near a Palestinian Village - Sari Bashi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"On a morning run, I discovered that settlers took over a spring that Ein Qinya is known for, on lands belonging to a Palestinian family Every time I return from time abroad, I notice the changing scenery in and around Ramallah. 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