{"id":2689,"date":"2020-12-30T04:40:24","date_gmt":"2020-12-30T02:40:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ummforat.com\/?p=2689"},"modified":"2020-12-30T04:40:24","modified_gmt":"2020-12-30T02:40:24","slug":"buying-hanukkah-candles-in-ramallah","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ummforat.com\/en\/buying-hanukkah-candles-in-ramallah\/","title":{"rendered":"Buying Hanukkah Candles in Ramallah"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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\u201cI am a Jew married to a Palestinian,\u201d I told the supermarket man, with a smile that I hoped was courteous, pluralistic and also conversation-ending. <\/em><\/p>\n

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I picked up Forat and Adam from school and preschool. My ultra-Orthodox nieces and nephews had asked me to call them on Skype, so that we could light the first Hanukkah candle together virtually, but between the lockdowns in Israel and the lockdowns in the West Bank, I hadn\u2019t had a chance to go to Tel Aviv to buy candles. My partner, Osama, insisted that I would find Hanukkah candles in Ramallah \u2013 he remembered them from his childhood, in the shops in the Jabalia refugee camp in Gaza, and if Hanukkah candles made it to Jabalia, they must be in Ramallah, too. I stopped at the supermarket. Three-year old Adam announced that he had to poop but promised he could wait until we got home. Six-year old Forat was excited about helping with the shopping.<\/p>\n

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\u201cI\u2019ll put the tomatoes in the bag,\u201d she said and also dragged the heavy carton of milk into our basket. When she saw me go to the cheese counter without her, she yelled, \u201cIma! I want to put it in the basket!\u201d<\/p>\n

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A forty-something man approached me and said in Hebrew: \u201cWhat good Hebrew those children have!\u201d I returned his smile and tried to get my cheese from the employee behind the counter, but the man continued: \u201cWhere did the children learn Hebrew?\u201d he asked, still speaking Hebrew.<\/p>\n

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\u201cFrom home,\u201d I said.<\/p>\n

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\u201cWhere are you from?<\/p>\n

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\u201cWe live here,\u201d I said. He didn\u2019t understand and then asked: \u201cWhat do you all work in?\u201d I knew what he was trying to ask, but I wanted to buy the cheese and candles and get home before Adam lost control of his bowels.<\/p>\n

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\u201cThey\u2019re children, they don\u2019t work,\u201d I started to say. But then I decided to be direct, hoping to end the conversation before Adam managed to grab the Spiderman water bottle he was trying to knock off the high shelf by poking it with a package of spaghetti. \u201cI\u2019m a Jew married to a Palestinian,\u201d I told him, with a smile that I hoped was courteous, pluralistic and also \u2013 conversation-ending. Lately I have decided to answer questions about my identity in Ramallah by pretending that people were actually asking, \u201cWait, weren\u2019t you in that movie, \u2018Black Swan\u2019?\u201d I decided I would then smile graciously, as if I love the attention, and confirm that I\u2019m an Israeli Jew, as if I were actually saying, \u201cYes, you\u2019re right, I am Natalie Portman.\u201d<\/p>\n

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\u201cOoh, ah!\u201d said the man, and he didn\u2019t want to let Natalie Portman get away so quickly. \u201cHow is Ramallah?\u201d<\/p>\n

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\u201cLovely,\u201d I said. Adam plucked a container of hummus from our basket, placed it on the floor and tried to stand on it. I pulled him down. He screamed.<\/p>\n

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\u201cIma, I want to put something in the basket!\u201d Forat yelled.<\/p>\n

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\u201cYes, Ramallah and Tel Aviv are similar,\u201d I said, and I asked the cheese seller for a package of the grated cheese they were selling at half-price. I said goodbye to the man and raced after Adam, who had found the toy aisle. Forat and I searched for something that resembled Hanukkah candles, but the store only had wide tea lights that wouldn\u2019t fit into the holiday candelabra.<\/p>\n

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\u201cDo you need help?\u201d asked the Hebrew-speaking man, who had joined us in the household goods aisle.<\/p>\n

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\u201cNo, thank you,\u201d I said, and I pulled Forat in the direction of the checkout line. \u201cAdam!\u201d I called, because I hadn\u2019t seen him since the cheese counter.<\/p>\n

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\u201cIma, can we buy the Frozen bubbles?\u201d Forat asked. \u201cAs a Hanukkah present?\u201d<\/p>\n

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\u201cWe\u2019re flying to the U.S. in another two weeks, sweetheart,\u201d I reminded her, even though the Israeli military hadn’t yet responded<\/a> to our request for a permit for Osama to travel via Ben Gurion airport, so I didn\u2019t actually know if we would travel in another two weeks. \u201cWe\u2019ll buy you presents there.\u201d We were hoping to travel for Osama\u2019s sabbatical year.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A supermarket in Ramallah. Credit: Umm Forat<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Everyone Is Looking at Me<\/strong><\/p>\n

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On the checkout line, Forat and Adam found a wire cage full of stuffed animal cats, the kind that supermarkets put there to torture parents of small children. They brought me every cat in the cage, one-by-one, and pleaded to buy it, meowing and saying, \u201cPlease, Ima!\u201d<\/p>\n

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\u201cNo bag, please,\u201d I told the cashier, and I gave her a cloth bag. When she handed me the receipt, I saw that there was a mistake.<\/p>\n

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\u201cExcuse me,\u201d I said, but she had already started ringing up the next person in line. \u201cI think the discount for the cheese didn\u2019t come off the bill.\u201d<\/p>\n

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\u201cWait,\u201d she said. In the meantime, the ex-Tel Avivian joined the rapidly growing checkout line and began talking to Adam and Forat in Hebrew. Adam showed him a stuffed cat, and Forat pointed to me: \u201cOur mother won\u2019t buy it for us\u201d. All the people in line, who were already annoyed with me because of the delay I was causing, turned their heads to stare at the children and me.<\/p>\n

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Natalie Portman. I am sure that Natalie Portman smiles graciously when people stare at her in the supermarket.<\/p>\n

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Fixing the mistake in my bill required the intervention of a supervisor who apparently had to reprogram the cash register. Finally, the cashier handed me three shekels.<\/p>\n

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\u201cWhy three?\u201d I asked. \u201cThe discount was five shekels.\u201d<\/p>\n

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\u201cFine,\u201d she said, anxious because of the growing line of people. She gave me another shekel from the cash register.<\/p>\n

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\u201cWhy four?\u201d I asked. She added a shekel.<\/p>\n

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\u201cTake as much as you want,\u201d she said angrily, as if we were haggling over the price of cucumbers in an open-air market.<\/p>\n

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\u201cHag sameach!\u201d the Hebrew-speaking man called out, which means \u201chappy holiday\u201d. Adam returned the greeting in Arabic: \u201cEid Saeed!\u201d<\/p>\n

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An Answer from the Military<\/strong><\/p>\n

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In the car, Adam\u2019s face looked contorted, but he assured me that the poop could wait until we got home. I knew I should leave immediately, but I couldn\u2019t resist \u2013 I checked email on my smartphone. The Israeli military was to have sent an answer that day regarding Osama\u2019s permit. I saw a message from the Civil Administration on the phone\u2019s screen.<\/p>\n

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\u201cWe inform you that the request has been granted.\u201d I gasped and then started to cry. My body went limp. I hoped the reception from the Israeli company Cellcom would be good enough to call Osama, even though I wasn\u2019t close to any Israeli settlement.<\/p>\n

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\u201cWe got the permit,\u201d I told him in a choked voice. \u201cWe\u2019re going to travel, Osama,\u201d I said. Then I added: \u201cI love you.\u201d<\/p>\n

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\u201cI can\u2019t believe it,\u201d he said. \u201cDo you realize we\u2019ll all fly together, on the same plane?\u201d <\/p>\n

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This post was also published at haaretz.com on December 27, 2020:<\/em><\/p>\n

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https:\/\/www.haaretz.com\/israel-news\/buying-hanukkah-candles-in-ramallah-1.9402564<\/a><\/p>\n

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\u201cI am a Jew married to a Palestinian,\u201d I told the supermarket man, with a smile that I hoped was courteous, pluralistic and also conversation-ending.  I picked up Forat and Adam from school and preschool. 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