{"id":4724,"date":"2023-04-26T23:29:54","date_gmt":"2023-04-26T20:29:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ummforat.com\/?p=4724"},"modified":"2025-09-03T18:35:24","modified_gmt":"2025-09-03T18:35:24","slug":"democracy-for-some-apartheid-for-others","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ummforat.com\/en\/democracy-for-some-apartheid-for-others\/","title":{"rendered":"Democracy for Some, Apartheid for Others"},"content":{"rendered":"

The Israeli army closed the city of Jericho on one of the busiest tourist days of the year. We spent hours waiting outside the checkpoint.<\/em><\/p>\n

\u201cDo you go to the demonstrations?\u201d a friend asked me, referring to the weekly demonstrations in Israeli cities against the right wing government\u2019s proposed changes to the Israeli system of governance. I had participated in just two demonstrations. In January I brought my children, nine year-old Forat and five year-old Adam, to the second demonstration, in Jerusalem. Forat and I prepared a sign: \u201cThere\u2019s no democracy unless we dismantle apartheid<\/a>.\u201d At the last minute, though, I left the sign in the car, because I didn\u2019t want to expose the children to negative reactions from the other demonstrators. I left Tel Aviv<\/a> 11 years ago, to live with my partner Osama in the Ramallah area, and the gap between my old life and the current reality, of family life in the occupied West Bank, seems to widen every year.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

On Saturday, the second day of the Muslim holiday of Eid al Fitr, Osama and I took the kids to Jericho. Forat and Adam slid down the water slides at the water park, swam in the pools and watched a children\u2019s show by a magician and two huge cartoon characters who led the children in dance and song. Afterward, we went to a restaurant that featured a playground in its courtyard. \u201cKul \u2018am wa intu bi\u2019khair<\/em>,\u201d the waiter said, offering us the traditional holiday greeting. He wrote down the children\u2019s order: pizza, chicken fingers and French fries. A singer, accompanied by a guitar player and keyboardist, wove in and out of the tables, microphone in hand, crooning popular Arabic songs : \u201cSend me a letter, let me know that you\u2019re OK.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"
Live music at a Jericho restaurant, April 2023. Credit: Umm Forat<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cWho here\u2019s from Tamra?\u201d the singer asked, and the crowd whistled and clapped. \u201cKalanswa?\u201d he continued, naming Palestinian cities in Israel and the West Bank. \u201cNablus? Jaffa? Nazareth? Jerusalem? Welcome to Jericho!\u201d The holiday marked the opening of Jericho\u2019s tourist season, during which tens of thousands of Palestinians from the West Bank and Israel crowd into the city\u2019s amusement parks, swimming pools and hotels.<\/p>\n

Throughout the day, we followed reports of checkpoints that the Israeli army had erected at the exits from the city. The closure turned Jericho into a gilded cage, of recreation and fun for the children, but we had no idea if we\u2019d be able to get home at the end of our outing. We paid the dinner check and drove toward the city\u2019s northern exit. The traffic stopped about a kilometer from the military watch tower at the edge of the city. To our right, visitors were still screaming in delight as they rode the rollercoaster at Banana Land. It was 8:30 pm. We waited. Cars began leaving the line and turning around, driving back into the city. I motioned to one of the cars passing us to stop. \u201cWhat\u2019s going on up ahead?\u201d I asked. The driver turned out to be the father of a girl Forat knew from kindergarten.<\/p>\n

\u201cSleep in Jericho,\u201d he suggested with a smile. \u201cWe\u2019re not going to make it out tonight.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Hundreds and then thousands of cars joined the line to reach the checkpoint. The diners from Tamra, Kalanswa, Jaffa and Nazareth wanted to go home, too. Drivers passed us, trying to get to the front of the line, and they formed three lanes instead of one, blocking oncoming traffic from the opposite direction. I turned off the motor. Despite their frustration, people maintained a holiday atmosphere. Drivers turned up the volume on their radios, brought tobacco water pipes out of their cars and passed around bags of sunflower seeds, smoking and eating. We let Adam and Forat climb to the roof of our car from the open windows, and they moved their bodies to the rhythm of the music.<\/p>\n

\u201cIma, why did the army lock us in?\u201d Adam asked. Forat answered him: \u201cBecause they\u2019re stronger than us, and they can.\u201d When did Adam start asking questions like that, and when did Forat learn to answer them?<\/p>\n

An hour passed. I called a journalist friend and asked her to ask an army official if and when the military would let people leave the city. The official told her that because of intelligence warnings<\/a>, they were carefully checking people leaving Jericho. I left the car motor off. Osama checked Palestinian news sites, but all they said was that the city was closed. The Israeli news sites made no mention of Jericho \u2013 their journalists were busy reporting on the large-scale demonstrations against changes to the Israeli governance system, the largest of which was being held in Tel Aviv: \u201cDe-mo-cracy! De-mo-cracy!\u201d the protestors chanted each syllable.<\/p>\n

Young people who walked back from the head of the line brought us news: \u201cThere are four female soldiers, and they\u2019re letting one car through about every ten minutes. Then they close it again.\u201d<\/p>\n

It was 10:30 pm. We considered our options. \u201cI want to sleep in a hotel!\u201d Adam rejoiced.<\/p>\n

\u201cJudging by the number of people trapped here, we\u2019ll be sleeping on the floor of a mosque,\u201d Osama replied. Forat climbed the ridge on the side of the road and returned with thorns stuck in her foot and blood dribbling down her flip-flops. The children complained that they wanted to go home. At 11 pm, they fell asleep.<\/p>\n

Three hours passed, and we had advanced 300 meters. Mothers and fathers, equipped with wet wipes, brought their daughters and sons to the side of the road to relieve themselves. Every 15 minutes, I turned on the car and drove about 20 meters. Some of the young people continued to dance and play loud music. Older men walked together on the ridge, discussing the situation.<\/p>\n

After six hours, we approached the military watch tower. Young Palestinian men handed out containers of water and tried to prepare us for an efficient checkpoint experience.<\/p>\n

\u201cMy sister,\u201d one of them told me through the open car window, \u201cKeep left, we\u2019ll move all the yellow cars there.\u201d He was referring to the cars with Israeli license plates, driven by Palestinian citizens of Israel and residents of East Jerusalem.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Young men handed out water and organized the cars into more efficient lines. Credit: Umm Forat<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At 3 am we reached the checkpoint. Three female soldiers and one male soldier stood next to concrete blocks, inputting ID numbers into digital tablets. The fourth female soldier leaned on a concrete block about two meters from the line of cars, her body tense, and she kept her weapon pointed at us the entire time. Another young Palestinian man told me to turn on the light in the car, to spotlight Forat and Adam sleeping in the back seat.<\/p>\n

\u201cThis one\u2019s a family!\u201d he called to one of the soldiers, and she let us pass without checking ID cards. After waiting for six and a half hours, we left Jericho and continued the drive home.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe Israeli army knows the economic significance of tourism for Jericho,\u201d Osama said as I climbed the hairpin turns in the hills leading out of the desert and into Ramallah. \u201cBusinesses here wait for this holiday all year.\u201d The military maintained the closure in the days that followed our visit<\/a>, and according to Palestinian news reports<\/a>, the tourist sites, which had been bustling with visitors on Saturday \u2013 emptied out.<\/p>\n

The sign Forat and I had made remained in the trunk of my car: There\u2019s no democracy unless we dismantle apartheid.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The Israeli army closed the city of Jericho on one of the busiest tourist days of the year. We spent hours waiting outside the checkpoint. \u201cDo you go to the demonstrations?\u201d a friend asked me, referring to the weekly demonstrations in Israeli cities against the right wing government\u2019s proposed changes to the Israeli system of […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5058,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_crdt_document":"","jnews-multi-image_gallery":[],"jnews_single_post":null,"jnews_primary_category":[],"jnews_override_bookmark_settings":{"override_bookmark_button":"0","override_show_bookmark_button":"0"},"jnews_override_counter":{"view_counter_number":"0","share_counter_number":"0","like_counter_number":"0","dislike_counter_number":"0"},"footnotes":""},"categories":[5,6],"tags":[9,23,37,40,52,55,69],"class_list":["post-4724","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-military-force","category-raising-children-to-resist","tag-apartheid","tag-demonstrations","tag-israel","tag-jericho","tag-occupation","tag-palestine","tag-tel-aviv"],"yoast_head":"\nDemocracy for Some, Apartheid for Others - Sari Bashi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/ummforat.com\/en\/democracy-for-some-apartheid-for-others\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Democracy for Some, Apartheid for Others - Sari Bashi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The Israeli army closed the city of Jericho on one of the busiest tourist days of the year. 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